Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe

And there we go, it is time to visit France and put up the Tricolore for the first time, since in the mediterannean it was not on our way and we didn’t have the time.

Approaching Martinique - for the first time we hiss the drapeau tricolore
Approaching Martinique – for the first time we hiss the drapeau tricolore

Shopping like God in France

Fort de France - the anchorage is to the right in front of the beach and the fort
Fort de France – the anchorage is to the right in front of the beach and the fort

We right away feel well and welcome in Fort de France, the anchorage is quite pretty, just in front of the beach and the fort and across the main town area, so there is everything from ship chandler, supermarket, fresh market, bakery and Wifi Pizza place serving Heineken and Lorraine.

Also the dinghy dock is excellent, it must be almost 100 meter long.

the Dingy Dock in Fort de France - what a comfort! it is for sure almost 100 meters long!
the Dingy Dock in Fort de France – what a comfort! it is for sure almost 100 meters long!

We enjoy the shopping, especially the cheese and sausage, but in general prices are quite ok and a bit lower than on the former English islands we just come from. As a result we go “power” shopping 😉

the "first impression" in the supermarket in Fort de France - after 2 bags in Mindelo and only two items in Barbados I am finally happy to go shopping again :-)
the “first impression” in the supermarket in Fort de France – after 2 bags in Mindelo and only two items in Barbados I am finally happy to go shopping again 🙂
the back side of the fort in Fort de France
the back side of the fort in Fort de France
the Schoelcher library
the Schoelcher library
the Savanne - nice place to do the jogging rounds in the morning
the Savanne – nice place to do the jogging rounds in the morning
the market in Fort de France is one of the most colorful we have seen so far!
the market in Fort de France is one of the most colorful we have seen so far!

SHE SAN being litterally boarded

One time just by chance we come around the corner and want to sit down in “our Wifi bar” we can see that a ship comes extremely close to our She San, so we run and chase over to her with the dinghy. And indeed, there is a german crewed charter boat just attaching to her with 3 lines – and we cannot believe it! Apparently they dropped their anchor and thought it caught ours so before ripping ours out, they just attach their 15 ton ship to us,,,

She San is taken over by a charter yacht with german crew...
She San is taken over by a charter yacht with german crew…
and as shopping is fun again we even can take the shopping trolley to the dinghy dock (after handing my ID to the security guy of the supermarket
and as shopping is fun again we even can take the shopping trolley to the dinghy dock (after handing my ID to the security guy of the supermarket

St. Pierre in NW Martinique

Three days later we move up north to St. Pierre with the target of using the laudrette and going biking. The drying of the clothes works well in a slot of no rain, but during our bike ride we have to pause 3 times because it is just raining too hard to go on…

During the last break we find shelter in a garage bar, where all the men come together to drink rum – well, it is Good Friday and what else is there to do? We prefer the beer and taste for the first time the Lorraine, which is brewed in Martinique and also belongs to Heineken, we learn. Maybe on the way back down we get a chance to visit the brewery?

St. Pierre beach
St. Pierre beach
St. Pierre anchorage with She San to the right
St. Pierre anchorage with She San to the right
looking forward to go biking - it has been a long time again :-)
looking forward to go biking – it has been a long time again 🙂
view down to St. Pierre
view down to St. Pierre
and another view from the south and again the rain clouds are approaching..
and another view from the south and again the rain clouds are approaching..
we witness the caribean youth swimming competition with participants from Barbados to the Caiman Islands
we witness the caribean youth swimming competition with participants from Barbados to the Caiman Islands
the ruins in St. Pierre, here the old prison where one of the two only survivors of the vulcane eruption in 1902 was kept and well enough sheltered
the ruins in St. Pierre, here the old prison where one of the two only survivors of the vulcane eruption in 1902 was kept and well enough sheltered
we enjoy the local Lorraine beer
we enjoy the local Lorraine beer

Traditional dance in the market hall

On saturday evening we pass by the market hall, where in the meantime a few carpets were rolled out and a few men and women started to make music and dance. It is really traditional and the mayor explains that this tradition comes from the earlierst roots of the people here. To me it does look quite similar to the Capoeria from Brazil, and for sure both have their roots in Africa.

we are lucky to assist a traditional music and dance session - a tration dating back to the roots of the population of Martinique
we are lucky to assist a traditional music and dance session – a tration dating back to the roots of the population of Martinique

Dominica in sight

We are persuaded that the rain also comes from the topography of the island in this region, so we head on to Dominica and find ourselves on a really rough ride between the islands. Because of all the water coming from all directions our autopilot catches water and breaks down – well, I am extremely happy that this didn’t happen during the passage across the atlantic!

Dominica in sight
Dominica in sight

In the Prince Ruppert Bay we are welcomed by Daniel of Edisson’s team but it doesn’t help us much, all moorings are occupied and the anchorage is quite full and when we find a place the anchor doesn’t hold… It takes us two hours in often heavy rain until the anchors holds and we have good place to sway.

beach in Prince Ruppert Bay
beach in Prince Ruppert Bay
the fishermen's dock - you cannot lock your dinghy here but there is always a guard on duty taking care that nothing happens - we meet Binity whose parents wanted to call her Britany but it was written down incorrectly in the hospital ;-)
the fishermen’s dock – you cannot lock your dinghy here but there is always a guard on duty taking care that nothing happens – we meet Binity whose parents wanted to call her Britany but it was written down incorrectly in the hospital 😉

On the track of the Pirates of the Caribbean

The next day we participate in the standard touristic programm, the indian river trip. We are rowed up the river and the further up we get, the smaller and more enclosed the slot through the forst becomes.  It becomes clear why they have filmed the Pirates of the Caribean 2 in this setting and a skeleton still remains from then.

and up we go on the Indian River
and up we go on the Indian River
with our guide who has to row 6 adult and two children and also comments on the nature we pass through
with our guide who has to row 6 adult and two children and also comments on the nature we pass through
and we enjoy the flowers and the hummingbirds but the latter are too fast for my camera..
and we enjoy the flowers and the hummingbirds but the latter are too fast for my camera..
and back downstream again
and back downstream again
the skeleton, reminding that the river was used as a film set of Pirates of the Caribean 2
the skeleton, reminding that the river was used as a film set of Pirates of the Caribean 2
and after the darkness in the river bed we are happy to see the sky again
and after the darkness in the river bed we are happy to see the sky again

Easter celebrations

Back on the beach we find everyone celebrating Easter Monday, from bathing to drinking rum to playing dominos and musik.

it is easter monday and everybody celebrates eastern in their own way
it is easter monday and everybody celebrates eastern in their own way
the bread friut tree, a bit later we eat it for the first time
the bread friut tree, a bit later we eat it for the first time

Unfortunately we don’t feel like celebrating as the news on my dad’s state of health continously get worse.

Little by little we understand the situation and many tears flow out while quite a bit of rums flows in…that doesn’t really help but at least it smoothes a bit the pain.

Fort Shirley and the Cabrits

Nevertheless we visit the Cabrits and the Fort Shirley at the end of the bay

Fort Shirley in the Cabrits
Fort Shirley in the Cabrits
a lizard - on our hike up the cabrtis we see and hear thousands of them in all sizes
a lizard – on our hike up the cabrtis we see and hear thousands of them in all sizes
View from the fort down on the Prince Rupert Bay
View from the fort down on the Prince Rupert Bay
on the West Cabrit Reto is trainin his shooting skills
on the West Cabrit Reto is training his shooting skills that he got from the Swiss Army
Panoramic view from the east Cabrit
Panoramic view from the east Cabrit
the lion fish in his natural environment the sea...
the lion fish in his natural environment the sea…
...and then on the plate in Sandy's Beach Bar - so delicious!
…and then on the plate in Sandy’s Beach Bar – so delicious!

and experiment the lion fish at Sandy’s beach bar. We really do like it but we eat with a certain respect as we know how dangerous these animals are while alive.

one of the advantages of all the rain are the nice rainbows, here two on top of each other
one of the advantages of all the rain are the nice rainbows, here two on top of each other
.,, and the spectacular sunsets thanks to the cloudy skys
.,, and the spectacular sunsets thanks to the cloudy skys

Guadeloupe

Then we continoue on to Guadeloupe, another rough ride with regularly 26 knots shown on our wind meter that most probably doesnt show it all when we compare with others…Anyway with the 3rd and the 4th reef in both sails and the wind almost on the nose we still go 6 to 7 knots, so it is quite shaky …

we feel according to the weather surrounding us
we feel according to the weather surrounding us
Point-à-Poitre leaves a rather sad impression on us
Point-à-Poitre leaves a rather sad impression on us

We anchor close between marina and town with a “beautiful view” of the container harbour and the mountains, but these we anyway don’t see often through the rain and the clouds…

Togehter with the news from home the setting is perfect to be sad and become depressed. On Wednesday we understand that my father Hansl doesn’t want any more help and on Friday we receive the message that he has passed away.

we visit the Sunday service in the Eglise de St. Pierre et St. Paul
we visit the Sunday service in the Eglise de St. Pierre et St. Paul
the chrch is decorated with beautiful flowers
the chrch is decorated with beautiful flowers
we light a candle for my daddy
we light a candle for my daddy

On Sunday we visit the church in town and together with many others who commemorate somebody they love we also light a candle for my dad. We try to accept the idea that he now is close to us in a different way.

We know how happy he was to follow our sailing adventures and it was thanks to him that we got the idea in the first place. He was a fan of the Austrian sailor Wolfgang Hausner already in the 70’s and already at that time visited one of Hausner’s favorite dive places, the island Nosy Be in the northwest of Madagaskar. Then over many years we exchanged with him all the books on sailing adventures we could find.

my dad on 91st birthday almost one year ago
my dad on 91st birthday almost one year ago

Now we have to go on and make sure that we experience many interesting and fun stories and he will be with us closer than ever before.

Cruising in the Caribbean Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe
View from St. Pierre in Martinique over the anchor field
Sailing in the Caribbean Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe
View from Fort Shirley in the Cabrits over the Prince Rupert Bay in Dominica

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